Swatch AquaChrono Watch List (History, ETA Movements, Model Numbers)
I've been a fan of these watches since I got my first in 1995 and I later bought four more as NOS (New Old Stock) around 2004/5. In fact I've worn these almost exclusively since as the stretchy bracelets are very comfortable and they're a very tough and reliable watch.
Faults are relatively minor:
- They're very thick and the face can scuff up over time (but polishes up easily with T-Cut)
- Bezel rings can snap when removing to clean, as I found to my cost the other week!
- At least half of the designs are garish/ugly and even the more masculine ones still look a bit childish in formal situations
- The chrono hands can get stuck through lack of use but agitation with the buttons in counter reset mode eventually unsticks them
A brief history is as follows. Swatch diversified hugely during the 90s and brought out many new classes of watch beyond their basic 80s models. Around 1990 they introduced both chronographs and the Scuba line (a chunky divers style watch). For some reason it took them until 1993 to combine the chronograph movement and Scuba design into the AquaChrono.
For the first couple of years all used a cost-reduced (but still 22-Jewel) ETA 251 movement labeled 251.282 and I don't think this was ever sold/used by anyone else (ETA is part of Swatch group). Impressive that a watch retailing at £50 contained basically the same movement as other Swiss watches costing 10-20 times as much!
Things started to change in 1995 when a mid-size AquaChrono was launched with the same dimensions of the Scuba. This can't have been very successful as they were dropped for 1997. These used a new cheaper ETA G10 4-Jewel movement and the following year (1996) all models switched to the G10 (which is still used in all Swatch chronos to this day). While the ETA 251 offered seconds, minutes and 12 hours of timing, the G10 offers 1/10th of a second timing up to 60 minutes.
In later years some models also included date display but the number of designs dropped rapidly in the late 90s as Swatch moved away from plastic to metal "Irony" models. This is a shame as their watches became very bland. In recent years they've reintroduced a chunky plastic chrono watch to the range but it's far less distinctive, with a cheap fashion-brand look. The final couple of designs released in 2000 seem to be specials clearing old stocks of 1994 models and they're very rare.
In terms of accuracy there's nothing to choose between the different movements but on the single 4-Jewel/Date model I have the crown and buttons have a noisy, clunky action. Hence when I recently started hunting for others I was mainly interested in tracking down earlier models with the original 251 movement. As it turns out there aren't many left around, mainly neglected used examples or NOS at crazy Buy-It-Now prices. Seeing as I went to the trouble of finding all the models and their codes/specs I thought I'd share it.
I'm probably missing a couple of special models issued but this is the best I can do with the information/pictures out there. Model codes all start SB (SE for mid-size) with the third letter giving the case colour, and a number in the 400 range means a date window. Models in bold are the ones I own. Armed with the names/codes you'll easily be able to find pictures of each via Google :-)
Year Released | Model Name | Model Code | Movement Jewels | Comments |
---|---|---|---|---|
1993 | Black Rudder | SBB 100 | 22 | |
1993 | Red Harbour | SBG 100 | 22 | |
1993 | Blue Sky | SBN 100 | 22 | |
1994 | Silver Moon | SBK 100 | 22 | |
1994 | Sirena | SBK 101 | 22 | |
1994 | Bagnino | SBK 102/103 | 22 | |
1994 | Lillibeth | SBK 104 | 22 | |
1994 | Waterpower | SBM 100/101 | 22 | |
1994 | Seppia | SBM 102 | 22 | |
1994 | Big Blue | SBN 101 | 22 | |
1995 | Space Chill | SBB 101 | 22 | |
1995 | Overboard | SBK 105 | 22 | |
1995 | Point Break | SBK 106/107 | 22 | |
1995 | Happy Landing | SBK 109 | 4 | Exception to the rule, first full-size model to get the cheaper ETA G10 movement |
1995 | Blue Wings | SBL 100 | 22 | |
1995 | Onda Nera | SBM 103 | 22 | |
1995 | Cool Water | SBN 102 | 22 | |
1995 | Sea & Sun | SBN 103 | 22 | |
1995 | Nikiphoros | SBZ 102 | 22 | |
1995 | Black Jack | SEB 100/101 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | American Dream | SEK 103 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Orange Juice | SEK 104 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Red Sun | SEK 105 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Game Over | SEL 101 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Golden Rivet | SEM 100/101 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Slamma Jam | SEN 100 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1995 | Commendatore | SEN 101/102 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1996 | AC Brown | SBB 102 | 4 | |
1996 | Truck Driver | SBB 103 | 4 | |
1996 | Pool Side | SBK 111 | 4 | |
1996 | Fluosite | SBK 112 | 4 | |
1996 | Control Panel | SBM 104 | 4 | |
1996 | Red Snapper | SBM 105 | 4 | |
1996 | Waterwhirl | SBN 104 | 4 | |
1996 | Fluowave | SBN 105 | 4 | |
1996 | El Leon | SBN 106 | 4 | |
1996 | Yucca | SBN 107 | 4 | |
1996 | Mark Spitz | SBZ 103 | 4 | |
1996 | Sun Garden | SEG 100 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1996 | Bleu Royale | SEK 106 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1996 | Space Trip | SEK 107 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1996 | Said Aouita | SEZ 101 | 4 | Mid-Size |
1997 | Big Red | SBB 104 | 4 | |
1997 | Deep Silver | SBB 400 | 4 | Date |
1997 | Cartographic | SBK 113 | 4 | |
1997 | Assualt | SBK 114 | 4 | |
1997 | Assualt Nagano | SBK 114 | 4 | |
1997 | Blue Ring | SBK 117 | 4 | |
1997 | Fluo in Water | SBK 401 | 4 | Date |
1997 | Inky Water | SBM 106 | 4 | |
1997 | Silver | SBM 107 | 4 | |
1997 | Rivets | SBM 108 | 4 | |
1997 | Mareggiata | SBS 100 | 4 | |
1997 | Wake Up | SBZ 104 | 4 | |
1998 | Radar | SBB 106 | 4 | |
1998 | Steering Unit | SBB 107 | 4 | |
1998 | Free Dive | SBB 401 | 4 | Date |
1998 | Ice Diving | SBB 402 | 4 | Date |
1998 | Roughneck | SBM 109 | 4 | |
1998 | Oval | SBM 400 | 4 | Date |
1998 | Balastic | SBN 108 | 4 | |
1998 | City Control | SBN 109 | 4 | |
1998 | Tracking | SBN 400 | 4 | Date |
1999 | Laser | SBB 109 | 4 | |
1999 | Bananarasp | SBJ 400 | 4 | Date |
1999 | Halfpipe | SBM 401 | 4 | Date |
1999 | The 7th Wave | SBN 110 | 4 | |
1999 | Tableau De Bord | SBN 401 | 4 | Date |
2000 | Terra Verde | SBK 119 | 22 | 1994 Sirena with different bezel/bracelet |
2000 | Paradiso Perdido | SBK 120 | 22 | 1994 Lillibeth with different bezel/strap |
How do you unstick chrono dials? I have one where everything else works fine. the only stuck dials are the 2 upper chrono ones.
ReplyDeleteHi, see section B of these instructions:
Deletehttp://usersmanuals1.com/uifiles/170/559641/chronograph-eta-251-272-manuals_n.png
When the crown is pulled out one step the lower button will manually move the left dial, two steps and it will move the right dial. You may have to hold down the button for a long time before you start to see the hand flicker. It then might starting jumping around a few steps at a time and eventually move continuously.
I've had a few 80s and 90s ETA movements now (chronos and regular) and they often have stuck hands, probably from dried up oil in the jewels. Also worth leaving the watch in direct sunlight or some other method to get it nice and warm before you try, help soften up the oil.
thanks! I will try it again. I ended up with a seppia,. love the looks. have a good one.
ReplyDeleteNo problem, let me know how you get on. I haven't had any problems with mine since I unstuck them 10+ years ago so it seems to be enough to shift the dried up oil and let the hands move freely again.
Deletesun was the key. now I have a fully functioning watch. thanks a lot!
ReplyDeleteAny idea what kind of batteries this watch takes? I have one with no batteries in it and would love to start wearing it again.
ReplyDeleteThey all take a 394, also known as SR936SW
DeleteYears after your post, just to say thanks for this. It is a big help for me trying to collect all the 22 jewels models here.
ReplyDeleteThanks 😊
Thanks. It's a long time since I searched for these watches, must be even harder to find good/new examples now without paying big money. I did get a beaten-up Waterpower from eBay a few years ago for spare parts (strap/bezel).
DeleteAt this moment I've got 9 (22 jewels) models. With time and looking a lot, you can still find a NOS ones not paying a fortune. Thanks!
DeleteHi, discovered an Aqua Chrono in a bottom draw and trying to discover what model it is. Can't see a model number on the watch case or perspex box as per your table. Its printed as 22 jewel on rear of the case and is stamped with 445 also. The design is; black rubber strap with small corrogations, it has a orange catch with light green and pink strap keepers. The face is white with black roman numeral XII at top and chrome spots around face . It has 3 light green oval chrono displays on the face (two at top , one at bottom ) , thetre are 3 buttons on right side , it has a Chrome bezel with black numerals. Would welcome any thoughts on which Aqua Chrono this is, many thanks.
ReplyDeleteHi, that sounds like the "Overboard" model but with a strap from the "Seppia" model. Do a Google image search to check.
DeleteThanks so much , indeed that's it and strap from the other model. Will have to have a good dig to see if have the original strap further in the draw. I'll probably put it in ebay so will ping a link when put it up. Thanks again, you are a star.
Delete