Swatch AquaChrono Watch List (History, ETA Movements, Model Numbers)


I've been a fan of these watches since I got my first in 1995 and I later bought four more as NOS (New Old Stock) around 2004/5. In fact I've worn these almost exclusively since as the stretchy bracelets are very comfortable and they're a very tough and reliable watch.

Faults are relatively minor:

  • They're very thick and the face can scuff up over time (but polishes up easily with T-Cut)
  • Bezel rings can snap when removing to clean, as I found to my cost the other week!
  • At least half of the designs are garish/ugly and even the more masculine ones still look a bit childish in formal situations
  • The chrono hands can get stuck through lack of use but agitation with the buttons in counter reset mode eventually unsticks them

A brief history is as follows. Swatch diversified hugely during the 90s and brought out many new classes of watch beyond their basic 80s models. Around 1990 they introduced both chronographs and the Scuba line (a chunky divers style watch).  For some reason it took them until 1993 to combine the chronograph movement and Scuba design into the AquaChrono.

For the first couple of years all used a cost-reduced (but still 22-Jewel) ETA 251 movement labeled 251.282 and I don't think this was ever sold/used by anyone else (ETA is part of Swatch group).  Impressive that a watch retailing at £50 contained basically the same movement as other Swiss watches costing 10-20 times as much!

Things started to change in 1995 when a mid-size AquaChrono was launched with the same dimensions of the Scuba. This can't have been very successful as they were dropped for 1997. These used a new cheaper ETA G10 4-Jewel movement and the following year (1996) all models switched to the G10 (which is still used in all Swatch chronos to this day). While the ETA 251 offered seconds, minutes and 12 hours of timing, the G10 offers 1/10th of a second timing up to 60 minutes.

In later years some models also included date display but the number of designs dropped rapidly in the late 90s as Swatch moved away from plastic to metal "Irony" models. This is a shame as their watches became very bland. In recent years they've reintroduced a chunky plastic chrono watch to the range but it's far less distinctive, with a cheap fashion-brand look. The final couple of designs released in 2000 seem to be specials clearing old stocks of 1994 models and they're very rare.

In terms of accuracy there's nothing to choose between the different movements but on the single 4-Jewel/Date model I have the crown and buttons have a noisy, clunky action. Hence when I recently started hunting for others I was mainly interested in tracking down earlier models with the original 251 movement. As it turns out there aren't many left around, mainly neglected used examples or NOS at crazy Buy-It-Now prices. Seeing as I went to the trouble of finding all the models and their codes/specs I thought I'd share it.

I'm probably missing a couple of special models issued but this is the best I can do with the information/pictures out there. Model codes all start SB (SE for mid-size) with the third letter giving the case colour, and a number in the 400 range means a date window. Models in bold are the ones I own.  Armed with the names/codes you'll easily be able to find pictures of each via Google :-)

Year ReleasedModel NameModel CodeMovement JewelsComments
1993Black RudderSBB 10022
1993Red Harbour SBG 10022
1993Blue Sky SBN 10022
1994Silver Moon SBK 10022
1994Sirena SBK 10122
1994Bagnino SBK 102/10322
1994Lillibeth SBK 10422
1994Waterpower SBM 100/10122
1994Seppia SBM 10222
1994Big Blue SBN 10122
1995Space Chill SBB 10122
1995Overboard SBK 10522
1995Point Break SBK 106/10722
1995Happy Landing SBK 1094Exception to the rule, first full-size model to get the cheaper ETA G10 movement
1995Blue Wings SBL 10022
1995Onda Nera SBM 10322
1995Cool Water SBN 10222
1995Sea & Sun SBN 10322
1995Nikiphoros SBZ 10222
1995Black Jack SEB 100/1014Mid-Size
1995American Dream SEK 1034Mid-Size
1995Orange Juice SEK 1044Mid-Size
1995Red Sun SEK 1054Mid-Size
1995Game Over SEL 1014Mid-Size
1995Golden Rivet SEM 100/1014Mid-Size
1995Slamma Jam SEN 1004Mid-Size
1995CommendatoreSEN 101/1024Mid-Size
1996AC Brown SBB 1024
1996Truck Driver SBB 1034
1996Pool Side SBK 1114
1996Fluosite SBK 1124
1996Control Panel SBM 1044
1996Red Snapper SBM 1054
1996Waterwhirl SBN 1044
1996FluowaveSBN 1054
1996El Leon SBN 1064
1996Yucca SBN 1074
1996Mark Spitz SBZ 1034
1996Sun Garden SEG 1004Mid-Size
1996Bleu Royale SEK 1064Mid-Size
1996Space Trip SEK 1074Mid-Size
1996Said Aouita SEZ 1014Mid-Size
1997Big Red SBB 1044
1997Deep Silver SBB 4004Date
1997Cartographic SBK 1134
1997Assualt SBK 1144
1997Assualt NaganoSBK 1144
1997Blue Ring SBK 1174
1997Fluo in Water SBK 4014Date
1997Inky Water SBM 1064
1997Silver SBM 1074
1997Rivets SBM 1084
1997Mareggiata SBS 1004
1997Wake Up SBZ 1044
1998Radar SBB 1064
1998Steering UnitSBB 1074
1998Free Dive SBB 4014Date
1998Ice Diving SBB 4024Date
1998Roughneck SBM 1094
1998OvalSBM 4004Date
1998Balastic SBN 1084
1998City ControlSBN 1094
1998TrackingSBN 4004Date
1999LaserSBB 1094
1999BananaraspSBJ 4004Date
1999HalfpipeSBM 4014Date
1999The 7th WaveSBN 1104
1999Tableau De BordSBN 4014Date
2000Terra VerdeSBK 119221994 Sirena with different bezel/bracelet
2000Paradiso PerdidoSBK 120221994 Lillibeth with different bezel/strap


Comments

  1. How do you unstick chrono dials? I have one where everything else works fine. the only stuck dials are the 2 upper chrono ones.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, see section B of these instructions:

      http://usersmanuals1.com/uifiles/170/559641/chronograph-eta-251-272-manuals_n.png

      When the crown is pulled out one step the lower button will manually move the left dial, two steps and it will move the right dial. You may have to hold down the button for a long time before you start to see the hand flicker. It then might starting jumping around a few steps at a time and eventually move continuously.

      I've had a few 80s and 90s ETA movements now (chronos and regular) and they often have stuck hands, probably from dried up oil in the jewels. Also worth leaving the watch in direct sunlight or some other method to get it nice and warm before you try, help soften up the oil.

      Delete
  2. thanks! I will try it again. I ended up with a seppia,. love the looks. have a good one.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No problem, let me know how you get on. I haven't had any problems with mine since I unstuck them 10+ years ago so it seems to be enough to shift the dried up oil and let the hands move freely again.

      Delete
  3. sun was the key. now I have a fully functioning watch. thanks a lot!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Any idea what kind of batteries this watch takes? I have one with no batteries in it and would love to start wearing it again.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Years after your post, just to say thanks for this. It is a big help for me trying to collect all the 22 jewels models here.
    Thanks 😊

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks. It's a long time since I searched for these watches, must be even harder to find good/new examples now without paying big money. I did get a beaten-up Waterpower from eBay a few years ago for spare parts (strap/bezel).

      Delete
    2. At this moment I've got 9 (22 jewels) models. With time and looking a lot, you can still find a NOS ones not paying a fortune. Thanks!

      Delete
  6. Hi, discovered an Aqua Chrono in a bottom draw and trying to discover what model it is. Can't see a model number on the watch case or perspex box as per your table. Its printed as 22 jewel on rear of the case and is stamped with 445 also. The design is; black rubber strap with small corrogations, it has a orange catch with light green and pink strap keepers. The face is white with black roman numeral XII at top and chrome spots around face . It has 3 light green oval chrono displays on the face (two at top , one at bottom ) , thetre are 3 buttons on right side , it has a Chrome bezel with black numerals. Would welcome any thoughts on which Aqua Chrono this is, many thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi, that sounds like the "Overboard" model but with a strap from the "Seppia" model. Do a Google image search to check.

      Delete
    2. Thanks so much , indeed that's it and strap from the other model. Will have to have a good dig to see if have the original strap further in the draw. I'll probably put it in ebay so will ping a link when put it up. Thanks again, you are a star.

      Delete

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